I paid a quick return visit to St. Alban’s cathedral this morning, feeling guilty that I’d seen almost nothing of it last night. The visit was curtailed by the entry of 800 smart and confidently polite pupils from the local public school, coming for their bi-weekly assembly. But I had time to see the tomb of St. Alban himself, “England’s first saint”.
Near it there is some historic graffiti, and a very large and ancient chest for donations to “the poor”. There would be lots else to see – the enormous carved screen I played in front of last night is so important it has a whole expensive guidebook to itself – but there isn’t time. London beckons.
I didn’t tell Jenny last night, but I’m seriously intimidated by the prospect of today’s ride – into the centre of London, and out the other side. The cycle path beside the A14 is not enticing; it’s narrow, overgrown, bumpy with unconstrained tree roots, and strewn with glass and other unpleasantnesses. But the A14 itself would be a suicidal alternative. And then it gets worse; at points near to civilisation it’s completely blocked by bus stops and unused litter bins.
Fortunately even the A14 isn’t eternal, and now here I am in a forest that Henry VIII hunted in. The sporting tradition lives on here, I see.
So when I get to possibly the most expensive road in Hampstead, a long hill where it takes about a minute to pass the frontage of each mansion, I enter into the same spirit, and challenge a runner to a race up the hill. He looks fit, and fast, and I realise it might have been a hasty suggestion.
For a while I’m a little bit in front, but when the top appears in sight, he puts on a sudden spurt. You, Sir, I tell him, are a mean fellow. But it all ends in bonhomie when we cross the finish together.
After that it’s bliss. In London, bikes rule. I’m leapfrogging buses, and an antique white wedding car, on cycle lanes that are generous, clean, and clearly marked. The A14 trauma is extirpated.
A brief nod to St. Paul’s, where I wouldn’t have been able to get up the steps anyway, and then over Blackfriars Bridge, and south on half-remembered roads, to a home from home in Herne Hill.
Hi Kenneth, if you’re going to Southwark Cathedral tomorrow you’ll probably need to make your way to the courtyard entrance by the cafe on the north (river) side. There’s a road closure for vehicles but you should be able to get by. The usual cathedral entrance/reception on the west side is narrow and not always staffed.
Well done for your survival of the “sad” cycle lane, pretty much unfit for purpose, but safer than the adjoining A14 and then successfully making it to London, where decent cycle paths and signage help the adventurous and intrepid cyclist.