67 miles, and 3700ft of climbing, you might think, isn’t an excessive workload for a nice sunny day. The thing is, 55 of those miles, and most of the climbing, have to be done before lunch, to get to Gloucester for a performance.
I was late to bed, with a painful wrist from the long ride to Oxford, and I’m up early. I have a strategy: just keep going. I’m not very good at going gently, so I wear myself out, and risk collapse. Today I’m going to go gently, and just not stop…
That’s not too difficult for the first couple of hours. There’s an hour’s ride out of Oxford along the hellish A40. At least there are cycle paths, more or less serviceable, beside it. Yesterday’s lovely tail wind is still blowing strong. Now, of course, I’m retracing my ride, so the wind is taking its revenge. The wayside grasses are not pointing me in the direction of travel.
I notice little things from yesterday. There are now two VW campers where yesterday there were three. The pile of rubbish in the layby. The tree trunk someone has tried to move out of a gateway. The squirrel a little more squashed.
The Gloucester to Cheltenham Cycle Path (I’m doing it backwards) is a joy of engineering. It looks as though they’re planning to fill in the remaining gaps, and make it smoothly commutable.
I normally plan to be at the cathedral two hours before performance – to let the wrists calm down after cycling, to meet everyone who needs to be met, to lay out my stall, to eat cake, and to practise a few scales as discreetly as possible.
Today there’s less than an hour, so today it has to be done efficiently, and with some shortcuts. Josh takes me to the Lady Chapel, a huge and beautiful space. He suggests a sideways arrangement, so four long rows, and no-one too far away. It looks good, and soon the rows are filling up.
A group of six cyclists sit prominently in the front row. They promised me they’d be here. Two of them recently cycled all 42 cathedrals, to mark an important birthday; they want to see how it’s done with a cello. Canon Nicky introduces me, and offers a prayer. Gillian has friends here, and they’ve come out in force. Her pictures seem to offer a special blessing today, basking in the light of the almost floor to ceiling coloured windows.
Afterwards there are fat Norman pillars to admire – have I told you how much more than Gothic I love the Norman? And lots of exciting glass, hidden chapels, tombs of kings, and the most beautiful fan-vaulted cloisters imaginable.
Unfortunately, by the time I’ve done all that the cathedral tea shop is closed. Four other tea shops in town are also closed at 4.30 on Monday, so there’s no further excuse to delay my departure to Newent, a dozen miles away, where chicken – and chocolate pudding – await.
Is that you in the front row seat for your own unfolding of the meditations?
Cheeky start to be sure.
After the hard graft of cycling, I breathe a sigh of relief when a cathedral is expecting you and busies itself to welcome you. Hurray for Gloucester’s welcome! Too many have failed you in this department, and it saddens me that they overlook you.
After your opening paragraph ‘Afterwards there were fat…’ I was sure you were going to say ‘slabs of cake’ rather than commenting on the architecture! . Tea shops do seem to have a tendency to close before ‘tea time’ .
I am so glad you admire Norman pillars over Gothic ones – me too. Please remember that most tea rooms close at 4pm. I am having a campaign to try to get them to stay open til at least 5pm but that is time for high tea on the north so staff need to be home by then! Hope to see you in Carlisle having been inspired to do so by your lovely performance in the Quarryman’s Hall in Creetown earlier in the year.
Beverley
Super pictures in this blog. Thanks for including them among the fascinating narrative.
You look so relaxed in the photo. Maybe you’re just hungry? I’m glad the cyclists were there to cheer you on. And the other people, too. Looks like a very appreciative audience.
Isn’t it amazing how important food is on our journeys from birth to death and all the twists and turns in between? Chicken and Chocolate pudding await me, too! Actually not — but rather lamb and felafel patties and curried couscous and carrot cake. Can’t wait!
The fan vaulted cloisters of Gloucester Cathedral look so beautiful and delicate too.
Well done (Chapeau) for managing those miles of cycle with a painful wrist and then playing your cello in the concert.
It is both fascinating and inspiring to read your blog and I’m looking forward to us listening to your concert at Carlisle, your final stop on your pilgrimage.
We saw you at Orton the other year, when you recounted your Highway Cello pilgrimage/adventure.